Fashion Buyer UK

Pitti 80 heats up with West Coast theme

2011-04-05T10:40:00.000-07:00

As if Florence's searing summer sun is not already hot enough for the cadre of menswear buyers that make the trip to Pitti Uomo, the eightieth edition of the menswear trade show will be kicking off the buying roster this season with a theme dedicated to California.
With Hawaiian shirts enlivening menswear rails and pundits sensing a rebirth of surf derived looks, it seems apt. Whatever, the summer 12 show will use the West Coast city’s creative scene to form the backdrop of its usual smorgasbord of menswear brands and to highlight the theme the show’s special guest will be cult brand Band of Outsider’s designer Scott Sternberg (pictured top, above one of his catwalk looks). Pitti W_Woman, the parallel womenswear pre-collection show
will host the design duo Kate and Laura Mulleavy, the powerhouse pair behind Rodarte. The two exhibitions take place from June 14-17. And you know that will roll around in a heartbeat, so book those flights people and reserve those rooms.

Quilt it

2011-04-01T09:21:00.000-07:00

Ah, quilting. You may have been tracking a resurgence in down filled coats for two years now. We have. It's been pushing through the cracks of menswear like an aggresive weed set to reclaim the pavement and Pitti Uomo and Bread and Butter have both seen increasing numbers of brands getting in on the Canada Goose act, not least a recently relaunched Puffa. And Milan this season bore witness to plenty of lightweight and interestingly stitched quilts. But this is one trend open to all. And so it is that brands from Pepe to Addict and Ben Sherman to G-Star have kept their production lines busy with this big ticket operation.
Here's a line up of our favourites. From top: Pepe Jeans, Pepe Jeans again, Ben Sherman Plectrum Range, Addict, G-Star, Schott, New Zealand Auckland.

Get top marks with your collegiate styling

2011-03-30T03:35:00.000-07:00

Do not think for a second that the collegiate trend is running out of steam. According to the stands at Bread and Butter this season, this is a streetwear look that is continuing to gain in currency. Denim and chino friendly Letterman jackets looked set for more action and brand insiders tell us that the piece is picking up the pace in terms of sales. Bold colourways and authentic US detailing are reworked for a savvy audience. Pictured above, from top: Criminal Damage, Criminal Damage, NCAA, Sir Benni Miles.

Ben Sherman's Modern Classics heats up for winter

2011-03-28T04:28:00.000-07:00

The Fashion Buyer team first sat up and took notice of Ben Sherman's Modern Classics collection in Spring '11 when the brand rolled out a lively heritage-inspired range of casualwear based around a vintage aviation theme.

The autumn collection, collaboratively designed by Everton Campbell co-owner of directional menswear indie Hip in Leeds, takes its lead from 1950s British countrywear setting its creative tone around the daredevil World Water Record attempts of Donald and Malcolm Campbell. The wardrobes of these gutsy gentlemen provide the blueprint for a Made In England collection which includes slim-fitting Harris Tweed country jackets, a parka developed using Millerain Waxed Canvas, and an assortment of Oxford shirts and heavy knits including fishermen styles and fairisle patterns.
For more information call 020 7812 3000, or visit www.amodernclassic.co.uk.

Key autumn piece: the gilet

2011-03-25T10:24:00.000-07:00

How much railspace have you put aside for gilets this autumn? The look is only going to get bigger and there are easy ways to interpret this bulky piece. Until now, the gilet has been all about uber youthful styles with an urban flavour or nerdy Americana menswear. These two takes are meeting in the middle. Above you can see Marc O'Polo styling a funnel collar version with knit shirt and tie. Below Criminal Damage teams chambray and overshirt with a two-colour gilet for outdoors chic.

Next comes Denim Development, which kinda combines the two...

Followed by Crew Clothing, New Zealand Auckland and Pride and Dignity. All underline the premium casual look of the gilet. Get 'em in brown, blue, black, olive and tan for on-trend layers this autumn and you will not regret it.

There’s a new show in town

2011-03-25T09:54:00.000-07:00

Next stop for menswear....

It seems that there’s always someone with an idea for a new trade show brewing and for once, one of those plans has fermented. The trio of TBC founder Mark Batista, Bathing Ape agent Craig Ford and Egomark’s Andrew Parfitt have joined forces to create a menswear show set to debut this August.
Called Jacket Required, the show will lasso the trio’s brands, including Mr Bathing Ape, Gitman Bros and Calabrese along with a raft of similarly pitched premium menswear brands, so that UK buyers can shorten their London buying trips, place their orders for “around 37 brands” and get back in their store – “which is where they really want to be”, as a spokesman for the show commented. “It will be far easier for them to come to London once, see all the brands they need to see and get back to work, rather than keep coming into town to different showrooms.”
The venue has been located but is yet to be revealed. It is in Shoreditch, close to Shoreditch High Street.
And the spokesman added that while the debut show will have between 35 and 40 brands on show, the plan is to expand that to between 50 and 60 for the second edition and by the fourth show to have secured regular attendance from satisfied international buyers.
”In the first place,” says the spokesman, “it will be sixty to seventy percent UK buyers at the show and we are hopeful of a strong European and Japanese element attending too.”
The show is designed to bring together premium, design-led brands and the most recent ones to sign up are YMC and Pointer. The brand list is racking up and is looking good. And as the trio behind the show already work with a lot of these brands' target buyers we expect the invite list to satisfy.

Barbour raises the design bar for autumn 11

2011-03-25T09:20:00.000-07:00

Trawling the gems on offer in the LOCK hall at Bread & Butter I bumped into the owner of a much respected northern independent who let on that he had placed a £26,000 Barbour order for SS11 and had sold 80% of it before he boarded his flight to Berlin. That's 80% in less than a month and all this in a season which is clearly more challenging for a brand rooted in all-weather outerwear.

Barbour is clearly on fire at the moment and is one of the few brands in the UK which can accurately claim to be a license to print money. Thankfully the team at South Shields have no intention of resting on their thornproof laurels and for autumn 11 have presented one of the brand's most exciting and commercial collections to date.

Fans of the limited edition Beacon Heritage Range, as designed by Japanese design maestro Tokihito Yoshida will not be disappointed as there are plenty of sexy new detail-driven additions to the range, while much-loved styles such as the Bicycle Jacket, the Horse Riding Jacket and the Driving Jacket are clearly influencing the mainline at breakneck speed.

There's no hanging around for the team at Barbour who appeared to have quickly worked out that there is a ravenous appetite for the more challenging aspects of their directional Beacon Heritage Range, and have wasted no time in implementing the same level of design sophistication to some of the more competitively priced core pieces. Our personal favourite was the killer tweed jacket with a detachable waxed cotton hood (pictured top). Inspired.
At Bread & Butter, Barbour also underlined its aspirations to provide a full collection with an intelligently compiled range of heritage-inspired knitwear. We'll show you a few of the key pieces next week.
For more information call 0191 455 4444, or visit www.barbour.com.

Quackers enough to buy into duck boots?

2011-03-21T05:13:00.000-07:00

This season, Fashion Buyer's ski-slope trend-spotters from across the US as well as France and Switzerland all placed a resounding tick against the revived duck boot trend.

This part-canvas, part-suede and part-rubber monster of a boot, which laughs at the sight of water like...well like a duck, was apparently the footwear of choice for all the well-heeled powder monkeys in some of the hottest ski resorts across the world this year. First born as an Americana hunting staple at the turn of the 20th Century, the duck boot was subsequently embraced by Ivy League prepsters and has now been revived by the international ski set who all appear to be gravitating towards US brand Sorel, the key flag-bearer for the look. Subsequent style-spotters confirm that the boot has now made the transition from the slopes to the streets, and was seen this winter on the feet of some of Manhattan's most seriously fashion-forward.

Sorel took an impressive stand at the LOCK area in Bread & Butter in January and Fashion Buyer is keen to admit that some of the vintage-look American fellas manning the stand were rolling-up their battered selvedge-edge denims to show-off their Sorels in all their glory. It's a look which takes a certain quota of confidence but when pulled off correctly delivers a fabulous, if slightly clumpy, swagger.
The collection which is available in the UK as it is across Europe, is a sheepskin-lined affair which should appeal to Ugg-loyalist ladies as well as preppedelic chaps.
For more information call 0041 798 247018, or visit www.sorel.com.

Seil Marschall brings its authentic outdoors cred to menswear market

2011-03-16T11:47:00.000-07:00

Seil Marschall is a German family business that came to life in 1896. Its no-fuss approach to outdoorswear is fine by us and as a fourth generation company that sticks closely to its motto - "Our best machines will always be our hands", - there's both an artisanal quality to the gear and a fairly limited amount of stock.
So it's a genuine outdoors company and it shows. Check out the website at seil-marschall-shop.de which showcases a rdiculous breadth of stock. For us though, the duck boots are stand-outs and could represent a move on from the hikers that are emerging for men's footwear now.
The woollen satchels and duffel bags are bang on too. Vegetable tanned leathers and reinforced handles make them as functional as they are beautiful. Even among the glittering oysterbed of fashion that makes up the wares in the LOCK hall at Bread and Butter, Seil Marschall shone brightly. And that makes it special indeed.

Zanacco underlines premium handwriting for SS11

2011-03-16T10:55:00.000-07:00

Male shoe pervs beware, the following product pictures may seriously damage your buying budget. Super-sumptuous men's Italian footwear brand Zanacco has upped the ante for SS11 with a collection that builds on its reputation for incredible depth of colour (think Alden Cordovan grade and multiply by six), understated colour palette (midnight blue, burnished bronze and antique marble), and super-sexy silhouettes.

Made entirely by hand in Vigevano, the shoe-making capital of Italy, using only the most premium vegetable-dyed Tuscan leathers, and tanned in Bologna, Zanacco's footwear demands attention.
Wholesale prices range from £165 to £195 for the classic range, with sneakers priced around £100.
For more information call 07899 992086, or visit www.zanacco.com.

Volklore eyes buyers with fresh take on Heritage

2011-03-16T08:47:00.000-07:00

The Fashion Buyer team met so many buyers on our expedition of the AW11 shows, all claiming to be on the hunt for something new. Imagine our surprise then to discover one of the hottest gems of the season not hidden down a faceless exhibition aisle on foreign shores but casually strolling down a London street.

It was the sight of a stranger's exquisitely tailored canvas duster coat with its function-rich military/hunting details which instantly persuaded this inquisitive hack to tap this sartorially-splendid fella on the shoulder to enquire about the coat's provenance. The wearer in question introduced himself as Gary Craughwell and the coat, along with the rest of his dapper outfit, were components of the autumn '11 collection from Volklore, the brand which he and designer Sam Giles launched a year previously.

For reference, think vintage military silhouettes treated to a nip here, a tuck there and peppered with a few added details to bring these shapes bang up to date. Pleated twill chino pants sit alongside yarn-dyed shirts inspired by the construction of parachutes, hunting-inspired blazers and a full-length coat with a detachable hood-cum-cap which would have made even the late Massimo Osti sit up and take notes.
Any buyer looking to introduce a little home-grown icing to their Cabourn/Folk/YMC/Haversack merchandise mix would do well to take a monocle to Volklore.
Wholesale prices range from £24 for T-shirts to £150 for outerwear.
For more information call 077386 79902 or visit www.volklore.co.uk.

Peter Werth: the reboot

2011-03-15T15:42:00.000-07:00

Much anticipated fashion events can sometimes lead to a shrug of indifference when the final event actually materialises (hands up all of you who have sat through a catwalk and just thought, so what?...). So when we caught up with the rebooted and freshly logo-ed Peter Werth it was a relief to unearth a collection worthy of a considered re-edit. Looking commercial and also very "fashion", it includes some supremely wearable and detail rich menswear, ready to do battle with any of its competitors.
From its tweed and woolen jackets, toggle and rope fasteners and colourful ties down to its taped pockets and waistcoats this is a collection that ticks the full lifestyle boxes from casual to (semi) formal. We can't wait to see more of it.

Finally, dear reader, (as blogs would no doubt have said in the nineteenth century) FashionBuyer has been experiencing a blockage in the bloggage recently. Well, no more. We are very much back and hope you look forward to our resumption of regular updates.

Bread and Butter autumn 11

2011-01-24T00:38:00.000-08:00

This time a year ago, Berlin was besieged with snow, ice and the sort of sub-zero temperatures that only a down-filled puffa and a skin-full of the saloon’s finest Pilsner could insulate against.
This week though, while the weather was far milder, the key items on show at street and casualwear show Bread and Butter were not so very different from those that turned heads in the icy January of 2010.
The Sport and Street halls were dripping with varsity inspired looks with the Letterman jacket once again the standout item. Crew necked sweats, gilets and chinos completed the lineup of looks that perfectly recalled the styling of X-Factor twinkies One Direction. Those chinos came in twisted, tapered and cuffed silhouettes that
meant footwear now simply has to be considered a key part of any silhouette. And though simple canvas pumps are still on the radar, the high-top trainer and distressed work boot team well with the cinched hems.
At a more mature style point, the ankle defining looks take in brogues and perhaps most directional, hiking boots. Moccasin-toe work boots add a frontiersman edge and duck boots return it to a function driven feel.
Which brings us to the checklist of trends in the LOCK hall. At the other extreme of the mile long Templehof airport looks rooted to a far more premium take on casualwear. Heritage and history continues to imbue fashion –and particularly menswear – with niche expertise. Shetland and Nordic knits, Cowichan cardigans and Breton jumpers are all in the mix. Four pocket utility coats take the podium for outerwear, while parkas and down-filled puffas add a seriously functional element. Casting further forward, technical expertise looks set to justify some scientifically pitched price points on detail rich outerwear with hermetically sealed seams and other utility edged
sci-fi creations.
At the simpler end of the production scale, sweats proliferated to an extent that even the biggest fashion snob will have to admit that fleecy pants and crew neck sweaters have had a chav-ectomoy and now appeal across a wider range of customers than just the traditionally youthful crowd. And did we mention checks? On shirts and - more importantly now - those Hudson Bay style jackets and bags, checks are still deeply relevant.
Watch out also for wool shirts, the re-emergence of corduroy (on trims and trousers), quilted nylons and plenty of tweed, especially on jackets.
A relatively predictable roll call of looks? Sure. Lacking in excitement? Not at all. There’s scope yet for preppy, collegiate, rock-inspired and historic items to ring cash tills for some time yet.
Picture updates will follow every day this week.

Pitti autumn 11 brand profile: Alexander Boyd

2011-01-12T09:02:00.000-08:00

The very English brand Alexander Boyd has embraced a country gent look for autumn 11.
“But it’s not too eccentric,” warns sales manager Jason Roberts. “The idea is to be clear about the Englishness and then to make it easy to wear. It’s not about fancy dress.” To that end, the cable detailed cricket jumpers, penny round collared shirts, corduroy and moleskin trousers all come in easy to wear and muted colours.

A mix of blue, tan, green and cream is interspersed with washed out checks on shirts and the sorts of herringbone tweeds that proved popular across Pitti and which a heritage Anglo brand like Boyd has every right to make hay from. Not that it was all about nostalgic anglophilia, and in the guise of coated jackets, waxed blousons and washed waxed trench coats there was a technical edge to the ranges. And in its shawl collared cardigans in navy, green and burgundy the brand offered up a stand out piece.

Wholesale prices go from £25 for ties up to £350 for some of the outerwear. Knits come in at about £100.

Call 020 7377 8755 for more information.

Pitti autumn 11 brand profile: Mark McNairy

2011-01-12T08:48:00.000-08:00

US designer Mark McNairy has made a name for his colourful panelled footwear, but for autumn 11, he is excited about black. “I’ve done a whole collection in black,” he told us on day one of Pitti, “I don’t know what inspired it but it’s probably what’s exciting me most for the coming season.”

With this he picked up the suede shoe in the centre above and told us he has "done" black in a full range of materials. Does this mean he is turning his back on colour?
“Not at all,” he said, “the brights are still doing really well. The black footwear is only a part of a range that extends to about fifty styles now if you take in all the colourways.”
Well that’s a relief. And you can see by the pictures that McNairy is still backing bright soles, clashing uppers and spicy tans. Meanwhile, in amongst all the brogues, gum soled chukkas made a debut.

Wholesale prices go from £80 to £100. email info@markmcnairy.com for more information.

Pitti autumn 11 brand profile: Naked and Famous

2011-01-12T08:26:00.000-08:00

Fashion Buyer has been a fan of Canadian denim geeks Naked and Famous since the brand first popped up at Bread and Butter three years ago. Since then it has muscled into some serious shopfloors in the UK among both the indies and department stores.

And it remains an utter pleasure to encounter livewire co-founder Brandon (or Landon ?) Svarc is a dream anywhere in the world.
"Hi guys, do you want to see what’s crazy and new?” He said when he saw our eager little faces leering up at his stand. We didn’t need a second invitation.

"OK, how about these,” he said pulling out a pair of light grey denims, which apart from their slightly unusual colour and the brand’s signature slim silhouette looked otherwise unremarkable. We should have known better.
"These glow in the dark,” exclaimed an excited Svarc, before pulling out photographic proof. “So they are club-tastic, you can totally hit the dancefloor in them. And we can do it in different colours as well. Even the selvedge glows.”

Well that, we have to concede, is crazy and new. And what else?

There’s the snowpant denim, a waterproof, wind resistant jean with a bonded nylon fleece interior that is super cosy, and which has a zip up seam with a pop-over flap that can accommodate your ski boots.

There are white jeans that turn blue as they age, a quirk which Svarc clearly loves. “It’s the opposite of regular blue jeans, which turn white with age. I wore a pair for one day and my wallet left a permanent blue square in the pocket.”

And along with the cashmere denim, which the brand unveiled last year there is now a tweed filled denim, which you can se on the turn up.
And here’s one for the purists, a collaboration created with the original Japanese denim brand Big John. “They were founded in 1940 by the original Japanese mill Korobaro. We have merged our logos and the selvedge is red and yellow – the colours of their logo.”

Pitti Uomo AW '11 brand profile: Our Legacy

2011-01-12T01:57:00.000-08:00

With over 200 international stockists in its order books it seems as though Swedish menswear brand Our Legacy is having its moment. Dictated by a clean and modernist look which references archive styles, Our Legacy turns to texture for autumn '11. A hairy tweed duffle coat with melton lining, flecked cardigan and unstructured boiled wool blazers sit alongside jumbo cord trousers, heavy cashmere knits and the brand's seasonal selection of button-down Oxford shirts.

Shirt prices start from £38, knits range from £40-70, and outerwear goes from £90-165.
For more information call 0046 733999556, or visit http://www.ourlegacy.se/.

Pitti Uomo AW '11 brand profile: Nigel Cabourn

2011-01-12T01:45:00.000-08:00

Nigel Cabourn is enjoying his moment. Hosting the busiest stand, with its jostling throng of buyers spilling over into the central passageway blocking the Arsenale's main artery, Nigel Cabourn looked relaxed and pleased as punch. Who can blame him? His brand is now stocked in a roll-call of retailers which reads like fashion's hall of fame and here at Pitti Uomo he unveiled among his widest and most ambitious efforts to date.

Chunky roll-neck knits (designed apparently to be worn inside-out and back-to front), heavy flannel work shirts, peaked lapel Harris tweed hunting jackets and a shearling hooded aviator coat which weighed more than a fully grown bloodhound were among the highlights. But the real product winners this season are the pieces which Cabourn has created in collaboration with US outerwear specialist Eddie Bauer and British hunting bag stalwart Brady.

The Eddie Bauer collaborative collection is based on a diamond-pattern quilted jacket with a fur-lined hooded collar (for reference, think Run DMC with a little more colour). The Brady partnership finds Cabourn elongating Brady's bag shapes and adding contrast panels of Fox Brothers-sourced wools.
With so much product to examine, next time Mr Cabourn may we suggest perhaps a larger stand.
Wholesale prices range from £80-800.

For more information call 0191 275 9229, or visit www.cabourn.com.

Pitti Uomo AW11 brand profile: Will

2011-01-12T01:15:00.000-08:00

This one caught our eye as soon as we hit the Arsenale area at Pitti Uomo, No surprise really considering our penchant for native American blanket patterns. Launched in 1981, Will hails from Eugene, Oregon and is the brainchild of designer Bill Adler whose fascination for traditional folk-inspired American products inspired the launch of accessories brand Will.

Handmade saddle bags, intricately tooled leather wrist cuffs, and rodeo-friendly belts help define Wills' Buffalo Bill personality which, with its sparing use of Pendleton-style blanket fabrics, could help inject some serious colour into what is otherwise looking like a fairly sober autumn '11 palette.
Its attendance at Pitti Uomo marks the brand's first foray into the European market despite it being already stocked by all the premium players in US fashion retail from Barneys and Saks to Fred Segal and Neiman Marcus. Sales in the UK are being handled by Indigofera and retail prices in the US range from $40-600.

For more information call 020 7613 5551 or visit www.willleathergoods.com.

Pitti Uomo AW '11 brand profile: Engineered Garments

2011-01-11T05:17:00.000-08:00

New York menswear pioneer Engineered Garments picks up on a number of themes for autumn '11, all of which put the emphasis on innovative pattern-cutting techniques and texture-rich fabrics. Tone-on-tone floral embroidered tailoring in languid structureless silhouettes share railspace with a hunting-inspired range of Cruiser jackets, navy blue utility jackets made from the same uniform serge favored by the NYPD, and some seriously heavyweight folk-inspired knitwear.
For more information call 001 212 3434262, or visit http://www.engineeredgarments.com/.

Pitti Uomo kicks off the autumn '11 season

2011-01-11T01:04:00.000-08:00

With the early morning drizzle fading into the distant splendour of the Tuscan hills, the international throng of meticulously preened menswear buyers were welcomed to the autumn 11 edition of Pitti Uomo under uncharacteristically azure winter skies.

As ever, Pitti Uomo promises plenty. The return of Boss, a European launch of Arrow's full lifestyle collection, Gareth Pugh on the main catwalk, and Adam Kimmel's debut collaboration with Carhartt. Add Pitti's growing brew of directional artisan-led menswear, its traditional Italian tailoring players and the failsafe mix of British heritage brands and the show seems set to deliver plenty of start-line nadrenalin for the upcoming buying season.

Over the next few days the Fashion Buyer team will not only report on the most inspirational collections but also the biggest looks and trends set to ignite fashion sales next autumn.

Fashion's next protege

2010-12-21T08:40:00.000-08:00

Fashionbuyer always has its ear to the ground (eyes peeled and nose in the air too) in the hopes of finding something new and genuinely compelling. Today we heard a whisper… well, a bit more than a whisper actually.
The hunt for homegrown design talent is endless and two young entrepreneurial Fashion Buying students have made it their business to champion the undiscovered hero. Protégé Fashion is an innovative project for the next big fashion design thing to showcase their unseen talent. A panel of industry experts will select two graduates each season.
This season, those industry judges include include Topshop’s accessory designer Victoria Makin, New Look’s Senior Accessories Buyer, Philippa Meighan and Senior Lecturer of Fashion Buying at Manchester Metropolitan University Maria Malone. (Let’s hope they can get Tyra in to announce the winner). The chosen one will be given the opportunity to design their own capsule collection. A key ethos for Protégé is not operating under another’s label.

Never mind the next design genius, fashion’s next Protégés seem to be company founders Georgie Gough and Mikey Kenny. These passionate Manchester based Fashion Buying students could give Alan Sugar a run for his money. Watch this blog for the unveiling of Protégé’s winner soon. You may just be stocking their handbags next spring.

The best dressed list

2010-12-16T10:15:00.000-08:00

Christmas is coming and the year is nearly over. In the spirit of fashion media everywhere we have put together our list of best dressed. Check out our men of the sartorial year and see whether you agree. Some are old favourites, others are breaking through. Let us know if you think we are wide of the mark or have missed anyone off this list of 31 sartorial explorers.
These are just the celebs by the way. If we were to consider the best dressed in the industry, then it would be much longer. Hey, maybe we should do that....
Jon Hamm                   we’re still mad for Don Draper (pictured top)
Aaron Johnson            forever in Westwood
Jake Gylenhall             knit statements in chunky jumpers and beanies
Lapo Elkann                fun mismatches for the sun soaked (pictured second)
Daniel Day Lewis       half dapper, half hippy; all stylish
Ed Westwick              growing up in the sartorial spotlight (third picture)
Jude Law                    eternally effortless
James Franco               frankly the best, be he casual or formal
Prince William under new scrutiny but looks as trad as Dad
Robert Downey Jr       hit and miss, but that’s how we like him
Liam Gallagher           Mr Pretty Green
David Gandy              so hot right now
David Beckham          consistently awesome style
Charlie Watts              elder sartorial statesman
Jamie Hince                 the thinking man’s papstar
Dermot O Leary          Saturday night sartorialist and off duty denimhead
Brad Pitt                     handsome yes, but also great on a red carpet or in a casual coat
Johnny Depp               individualist
Matt Smith                  at the style surgery, the doctor is in
Benedict Cumberbatch best dressed thesp
Take That                    version 2.0 is sheer man candy
The Overtones             grown up separates from the year’s other five piece (picture four)
Rupert Everett                        latter day dandy
Nick Clegg                  for a little while, we believed in the easily tailored man
Andrew Garfield        the thermometer’s rising for this sharp dresser
Labrinth                      surprisingly sartorial
Chris Hemsworth        Downtime done right from the future Thor
Joe Worricker              upbeat jazz star showing signs of sartorial class
Luke Treadaway         never less than considered
Michael Fasssbender   makes casual tailoring looks easy
The Vaccines               unsavoury name, sweet style

Have a stylish Xmas

2010-12-14T13:54:00.000-08:00

Clearly being humans that are into fashion we dig OiPolloi, so it is with a light heart that we bring you the Manchester store's Christmas cards featuring the its favourite style icons. They are far from Christmassy but frankly who cares when they feature the likes of Steve McQueen, Jack Nicholson and Hunter S Thompson?

Pitti highlights to come

2010-12-07T09:58:00.000-08:00

Is it just us or does the buying season seem to rumble round quicker each year? Whether that is the truth or just the perceptions of an over-excited fashion journalist it was a real thrill today to pick up a missive from Pitti Immagine, highlighting the goings on at the next Pitti Uomo menswear show in Florence on January 11 to 14.
And we are chuffed to report that among the headline appearance at the season-opening show will be the presentation of ARP - the Archive Research Project, which has seen menswear designer Aitour Throup trawl through Umbro's archive to present a distillation of 87 years of sportswear (the Manchester company was founded in 1924). An iconic British football range? That could just be a commercial nugget for any premium UK retailer.
Also at the show will be the Slowear Group, showing off the Liberty London menswear range which was licensed out this year, at a special event on the night of the 12th.
What else? Well, American designer Adam Kimmel will be showing "a new project" at the fair. We've popped a few shots from his dapper spring 11 show in here just in case you're not familiar with his pretty sharp oeuvre. And US brand Arrow will lift the lid on its European launch collection, which Fashion Buyer expects to be a hearty tilt at the menswear market with a full apparel collection.
Frankly we can't wait. But if all this is not enough to tempt you into buying the airplane fare, then please remember that we will be bringing you the news - and looks - straight from the show, right here, daily.

Kane's cosmic menswear

2010-12-06T02:02:00.000-08:00

Everybody's starry-eyed, sang pop princess Ellie Goulding on her break out single. She must have been looking at Christopher Kane's debut menswear range.
The line-up, which hits landmark London indie Dover Street Market this month, includes cashmere tops, T-shirts, vests and leather pieces. The central theme is the designer's love of space pictures and certainly the reproduction of the colours is impressive; Fashion Buyer's eleven year old self would have loved it.
Kane says: "I decided to launch menswear so I could wear my own designs. My friends were forever asking me to do T-shirts off the back of the womenswear show theme, so my first shot at it was with the monkey tees; they were so popular I decided to keep it going, so each season we sell men's T-shirts alongside the mainline. I find it difficult to find staples I love so I guess I am launching this so that I can have a decent wardrobe! The mood (...) is based on natural star constellations. They are so beautiful I couldn't resist using them."
The sales contact is sales@christopherkane.co.uk

Menswear retail: Bricks, wood, stuffed animals and blankets

2010-12-06T01:35:00.000-08:00

Oh say can you see by the dawn’s early light, the future of menswear retail? Well, we can and inspiration-wise, it still looks to be coming from Stateside for the next six months at least. So we thought we’d bring you some VM ideas, with a few snaps of stores to whom the look comes naturally.
As you can see here, when it's performed sincerely it's less about hanging up some flags than it is about using quality materials and vintage objects. Bicycles, leather sofas, axes, and just what is it with taxidermy and menswear?
At the top there you can see The Field House in Seattle, Followed by Wisconsin favourite, Context and then Stag in Austin and then one that does favour a flag - Unionmade in San Francisco. Finally, for you denimheads, there's Imogene and Willie in Nashville, Tennessee. That last one is a converted petrol (sorry, gas) station and on Thursday nights a rock band plugs in here. Now that's what we call a destination store.
All of these stores made it in to US GQ's top ten indies.

Kenton Sorenson, doyen of all things leather

2010-12-06T01:18:00.000-08:00

We at Fashion Buyer have been chatting to Wisconsin maker of leather accessories Kenton Sorenson. He’s been busy hand cutting and stitching for the holiday rush but took time out to tell us about his products, an increasingly sought after range of handmade leather gear for men. Go on, Kenton, take it away….

I use only vegetable tanned leather, meaning it is tanned using tree bark instead of chromium. It's the old fashioned, environmentally friendly way. It takes a day to chrome tan a hide, whereas it takes a month to vegetable tan a hide.

Why do you use vegetable tanning?
Vegetable tanned leather conforms to you and your stuff over time. I like to leave it un-dyed, which leaves the leather in much better shape, and I oil and hand wax the leather myself. It darkens by itself to a light brown from exposure to light. Every piece is hand stitched for more durability.

There are few bells and whistles on your products, is it consciously simple?
I work hard at making every design as simple as possible. Here's my guiding motto: "Simplicity requires a constant discarding of anything that is nonessential."
I have a studio in Milwaukee, Wisconsin where I work and display my products and I currently don't have an outlet in the UK.

What products are in your range at the moment?
The product line is constantly changing. But right now it's a roller buckle belt, dopp kit, front pocket wallet, passport wallet, iPhone sleeve, iPad sleeve, iPad portfolio, laptop and document portfolio. And a briefcase. I'm currently working on designing a complete line to fit Apple products.

Pictured above are the laptop bag and the dopp kit (just in case you wondered what that was!). Note the light colour of these products - as Kenton says these will all darken with age.
To find out more, email kentonsorensonusa@gmail.com

River Island summer jackets

2010-11-29T13:49:00.000-08:00

River Island's jackets: form fitting bombers taking their cue from a slimmed letterman style. Contrast textures make their spring 11 point in washed cottons, denim and a mix of glossy nylon and leather-like PU. That black one above - once again a touch of Kim Jones abou tit but this time a rock ready interpretation perfect for the pages of the style press.

River Island menswear spring 11: preview

2010-11-29T13:42:00.000-08:00

River Island menswear for spring 11 shows all the signs of sophistication that we have come to expect from the very best of menswear at the moment. Check out the picture directly above, with its softly washed chambray shirt, all shrunken collars and white buttons, teamed with the French sailor's jacket and tobacco-shaded shorts. Above that, the 90s style lightweight parka with all the utility detailing you would expect of a once-upon-a-time Kim Jones. Pleat-bib shirts, nipped in dbs and cleverly nuanced red and black checks are all in the mix, as you can see. The point? Just as with New Look, details are the devils of menswear now and the high street has truly caught up. With value players and Asos eating-in to the high street's lower end, it's utterly appropriate that these boys have upped their game and are now squeezing the men's brands themselves.
Yep, once there was a time that River would have added a logo (with varying levels of sincerity and authenticity) to its garb, but next summer it seems real menswear fans will be able to get their multi-pocketed washed-out cotton-twill fashion kicks on the high street.

Burton spring 11: preview

2010-11-29T05:26:00.000-08:00

The right product at the right time. That’s the Burton mantra under Jonathan Lovett. And it seems to be getting it right, with classic category driven menswear ready to appear in the spring 11 range.

Pea coats, parkas, Breton striped knits, knitted polos and moddish silhouettes populate the core looks which, at the press day at least look to have leapt forward from Burton’s former in-store roster of basic knits and checked shirts. There are still checks in there of course (as there are everywhere) but now they are merchandised with shawl collar knits and chinos.
A subtle traveller theme is in line with the washed out looks coming through for summer, while suiting is slim and, for summer, mostly grey.
Meanwhile the brand’s Drift King sub brand continues with its hoodies, polos and checked shirts in its easy-to-wear and colour rich Americana.

Miss Selfridge spring 11 preview: elegantly glammed

2010-11-26T03:15:00.000-08:00

Heading back to Arcadia today and a sophisticated take on the 1970s trends from Miss Selfridge. this was less Studio 54 and much more about a reboot of boho with cleverly crocheted tops and utility pants alongside sheer maxi skirts and batwing tops. The colour palette was washed out , sun bleached and dusky, with sunset shades alongside kitsch geometrics. Pleated pants and kick flare trousers lined up alongside the full length skirts and silky kimono-esque tops and while there were plenty of flowing lines and draped fabrics there were scalloped, fringed and embellished details too. Elegant and commercial, with plenty of take-me-home prettiness to boot.
Enjoy the pictures and ponder the

New Look menswear press preview: US VM

2010-11-26T03:01:00.000-08:00

Is this a clue to New Look's VM next season? The press day preview dug deep into US soaked prep detailing and the press team styled the menswear shack with Old Glory and some collegiate bunting pinned to those chipboard walls.

New Look womenswear spring 11: white wash

2010-11-25T10:33:00.000-08:00

We will be bringing you more of this soon but here's a wee taster of the spring 11 womenswear from New Look. Get ready for some serious florals, picnic girls, traveller/festival themes and oh yes, the 1970s. But here's a cleaner look, which we think pretty succinctly sums up the versatility of white, something we're all going to have to think about going into spring 11.

New Look menswear spring 11: preview

2010-11-25T10:22:00.000-08:00

In a season clogged with a glut of Americana punctuated with heritage Brit prep, the retailer unveiled its menswear in an MDF surf shack merchandised to look like some kind of Wisconsin garage store and was all the richer for it.
We'll post some of our own pictures later but here are the official ones. Check out the Letterman updates, chinos, plaids and chambray shirts. We all know that menswear in spring 11 is not going to usher in any groundbreaking new looks. The devil will quite literally be in the detail as fellas seek out the most convincing takes on the themes that have come to preoccupy men's fashion. And New Look knows it. Multi panel boat shoes, stitch details, contrast knit jumpers, reversible linings on sleeves and legs all testify to the retailer's eye for the finer things.

Q and A: David Keyte, founder and designer, Universal Works

2010-11-23T16:02:00.000-08:00

David Keyte founded Universal Works in 2008 with a mantra of good honest British design, based on classic military and workwear detailing. “Clothing you will look good in,” the website calls it, so what’s the thinking behind it? Keyte tells all…

Q What are you up to today?
A Trying to work on a few last pieces of the Winter eleven collection, some Harris tweed pieces and quilted jackets we are working on with a maker in Lancashire

Q We love the socks. What's next for Universal Works?
A Yeah, we are pleased with the first hit of socks, they are really quite "outdoors" influenced mainly, very rugged and wearable I hope. What’s next is more hard work, making garments and accessories we are happy with and proud of, trying to give the customer good honest, simple design and great quality. We are always looking at new areas but we don't want to expand too quickly and we don't ever what to get too big or spread ourselves too thinly. Any new parts to the growing collection will happen as and when we right the right makers and the time to work on it.

Q That certainly sounds ultra sensible. You worked at Paul Smith - what did you learn from that?
A Everything! I grew up there, I left some years ago now but back in the day it was really the best place in the UK to learn menswear industry and I have great respect for Paul.

Q And then you had your own thing as a consultant - who did you work with then, and what did you get out of that?
A I worked with many designers in the UK, not designing but on sourcing and product development, I also worked with retailers too. At the time I really wasn't trying to "get anything out of it" I was trying to earn a living and give my experience but you are always learning. Hopefully every day brings new experience and you certainly never know enough.

Q So why did you feel moved to create Universal Works? We're guessing you saw a need....?
A I guess the need was in me, the world really does not "need" any more clothing collections, but I wanted to get my take on menswear out there, but not for an egotistical reason. It was more about doing it for me for a change, rather than for someone else. Maybe I should have done it a few years back but I am just a slow starter, and now the time seemed right. As I say, I was not trying to big up my ego, I just wanted to put some well-made, simple menswear with a good fit and good quality out to the market and see what happened. So far guys seem to like what we are doing.

Q What, to you, are the key elements of branding?
A I want Universal Works to be a clothing company more than a "brand" I don't want to logo the outside of any garment and I don't want to brand something we are not involved with completely.
I want someone to buy UW because they like it, it fits well and it lasts, I hope they feel it is well made and has a certain style, but I don't want them to buy it just because it is a "brand".

Q There is a feeling of a new sort of luxury in menswear now, based on authenticity, heritage and workwear, military derivations - rather than, say, the showy old types of luxury. What do you think? Universal Works seems to feed into that new definition...
A Well, all those words are the words of the moment I guess, and certainly our style is based around the classic elements of workwear and military wear. Men's garments often are, but we also have to keep up to date and not just make replica garments from the past. I prefer to use the knowledge of that past, and stay true to the function and simplicity of workwear but also make it relevant now.
Right now heritage and authenticity are very over-used words. UW is only two years old so we can’t claim either of them. But I think you are right, there is a new luxury as you say, not based on simply show and over-design and logos and everything. Count me in.

Q What do you make of the menswear landscape at the moment - if you were to open a shop, what would it look like and what sort of product would it stock?
A There are some great new retailers out there right now, and some established ones doing well too, those looking at the right product and making an interesting mix for their customers. Whilst it would be great to have a store really showcasing the UW collection and handwriting, personally the stores I mostly like are the ones which reflect some individuality, some character and a mix of product that is their own, smaller stores with owners and staff who have good knowledge of the product and give a great service. We will get round to a store one day – when we have some spare cash maybe!

Q Where do you look for design inspiration?
A The same as everyone else, the past. You need to know the past to know where you are going, so: old films, my granddad, often random old guys on the bus wearing too many garments at the same time, all of them worn out and mismatched. I often wonder if they know how cool they look.

Q What are you proudest of in the current UW range?
A That guys are prepared to spend their hard earned money on buying it. If I had to choose one item of the collection it’s the Knit Work Jacket, it was in the first collection and still looks great this winter, I live in it!

Q And what's next from Universal Works?
A Scented candles and logo T-shirts........ no, just more of the same and hopefully throwing in a few surprises too as we go along. I want to add shoes at some point and that will happen if only I can find a few hours on a spare day!

Dororthy Perkins spring 11: preview

2010-11-21T15:05:00.000-08:00

Take me to Dorothy Perkins and colour me summer. In spring 11, Dotty P is all about the pastels, kitschy clashes of saturates and a few neon pops, all balanced out with soft and light neutrals. The silhouettes take in the glam edge of the 70s, the gentle femininity of the 50s and the sort of fluid tailoring that is very much now. Fringes and tassels edge the sort of flowing separates that we have got used to seeing from Scandinavian brands. Think separates from fluid trousers to pencil skirts, flowing tops and jumpsuits. Scalloped edges, gathered jerseys and pointed pockets all underline the femininity as does the near-ubiquitous cinched waist.
Soft, flowing and feminine, for next summer if it's Perkins, it's pretty. And how.

Marks and Spencer womenswear spring 11: Seventies

2010-11-21T12:44:00.000-08:00

At the nation's beloved Marks and Sparks, the 1970s was all about teacakes and StMichael labelling, at least that's how it seems in FashionBuyer's foggy memories. Well, for spring 11 that decade gets a reprise all across womenswear and Marks and Spencer is definitely not shy about getting stuck in. For night, that means heavy glamour, with sleek floor length dresses and serious gold jewellery. For daywear think light washes of denim including A-line button through skirts and swinging bell-bottoms. On top there are soft floral prints, boho-esque tiered dresses and loose knits. Silky separates bring jewel colours and ethnic influences in to the mix for what is a luxe and moneyed take on the decade of glam.

Marks and Spencer womenswear spring 11: Coney Islanders

2010-11-21T12:16:00.000-08:00

Dubbed Coney Island, this was a mini-collection created to evoke long hot summer days. Spots, stripes and candy colours, with a touch of broderie were all cut to 1950s templates.

Marks and Spencer spring 11 womenswear: spring whites

2010-11-21T11:44:00.000-08:00

Embracing the unstoppable whitewash set to grip womenswear in spring 11, the Limited Edition and Autograph brand names produced deceptively clever tailoring in simple, clean and fluid lines, using that neutral and white colour palette for a glamorous and user-friendly way to don head-to-toe white. It will look darn good on Twiggy too.

Marks and Spencer spring 11 womenswear: Carnival / Glamazon

2010-11-21T11:20:00.000-08:00

Smouldering swimwear in cutout shapes, everything in flamboyant colours and cool leather jackets in snake skin finishes. It's all about carnival fever with a glam-azoinian edge for this really quite youthful story. Come the next ad campaign, we reckon this is more geared for Dannii Minogue and Lisa Snowdon (or their replacements, of course) rather than Twiggy. Think skinny denim and colourful maxis.
Also, under the brand Speciale, some very special Italian inspired (and made) evening wear. M&S upping the ante once more.

Label lust: Z-mode

2010-11-21T10:47:00.000-08:00

Always on the lookout for emerging talent, Fashion Buyer's eye (and heart) was recently caught by Z-mode.
A divinely feminine label with both Alice and Wonderland firmly in mind, its a mixture of beauty and fantasy with supremely modern minimalism.

Z-Mode debuted at this September's London Fashion Week, with a spring 11 collection that has already garnered column inches in publications including Elle. Designer Victoria Raganayah's favourite piece from the collection is the Cloud Nine dress. We think that's a pretty good description of the whole range of white, soft gold and grey. Please contact zigmanter@gmail.com for more details

That 70s show: M&S menswear spring 11

2010-11-18T15:20:00.000-08:00

After just thirty seconds spent fashion perving on M&S’s spring 11 menswear, one very clear message emerged. The 1970s is a big deal for menswear too.

Serious shoulders and nipped in waists, windowpane checks and wider lapels: it’s a confident look and one that M&S is set to deliver with a heavy dose of commercial nous.
Moving on from Mad Men style, it brings in more colour and a touch of flamboyance. Think pocket hanks and thick rimmed glasses, mixed and matched checks and texture rich tailoring. Hey, we can't do Don Draper forever.

One to watch, leather lovers: Borba Margo

2010-11-18T02:48:00.000-08:00

When you have been writing about fashion for as long as Fashion Buyer has, you tend to raise an eyebrow when a brand is described as wearable art. But every now and again you see a label that sort of makes that mantra work. Hello Borba Margo and your paint splash styling.
An accessories brand, Borba Margo was created by Brazilian-born Anderson Borba DaSilva and Swedish-Polish Jessika Margo.
The pair teamed with print and textile designer Ricardo Matos to produce a series of silkscreen prints that they re-worked into abstract designs, which finally took shape as animal prints, paint splashes and burn holes all used on only the finest leather nappa in dark shades of brown, burgundy, navy and black the collection takes on a dramatic but really quite fun feel. And as you can see from the pictures, they’re pretty comfortable with a tassel or two as well. Currently stocked in Harvey Nichols, Liberty and Darkroom as well as asos.com Borba Margo is definitely a brand to watch. Contact info@borbamargo.com for more details.

Arcadia preview: Topman trouser silhouettes

2010-11-17T09:26:00.000-08:00

It was Arcadia's press day today so Fashion Buyer got to indulge in a tidal wave of commercial trends. Ladies, we hope you like the idea of coming over all 1970s because it's near unavoidable according to the likes of Topshop, Miss Selfridge and Dorothy Perkins. More on that to follow along with news from Burton (looking good by the way).
But just to whet your appetite, check out these trouser silhouettes for trendy fellas from Topman.
We love the tapering, the merging of the jogger with cotton twill and at the top there is that a Houlihan for men? Houli-Man anyone?

Manhattan Portage: bag it up

2010-11-16T07:37:00.000-08:00

Aboard the trends carousel there is a seemingly endless appetite for the exotic, the foreign and the cool. And so the fashion capitals like Milan, Tokyo, London and Paris have an amplified cachet beyond their borders. You know this – your customers thrill at the mention of exclusive brands from one or the other.

And it is true too of New York, so it doesn’t hurt to have a name like Manhattan Portage. Hard wearing and techy, the brand uses neoprene vinyl, ballistic nylon, waxed canvas and Cordura, all waterproof or resistant, while buckles have been reinforced and straps padded for extra comfort. The brand, born in 1983 continues to grow its reputation through collabs like its latest one with 55DSL, customised by the Italian brand’s creative director Andrea Rossi.
To find out more call 0161 236 1115.

Nice Little Things: John Chapman accessories

2010-11-16T07:34:00.000-08:00

Ask any retailer worth their salt and they will tell you the value of NLT. Nice Little Things. That may not be their moniker for them, but they will gladly espouse the virtues of anything hard to resist and which takes up only a small amount of shop space.
Case in point: John Chapman. Known for handcrafted English bags, the brand has released some NLT in the shape of SLG, like these wallets and the quarter-leather-bound notebooks shown above. So with retail tickets from £45 to £99, we can only say OMG!, we sincerely dig these NLT.
Call 01228 514 514 for more info.

Albam x Factories: what you lookin' at?

2010-11-16T06:55:00.000-08:00

If you head down to the Albam store in Beak Street, London, not only will you see the brand's distillation of British men's clothing, but you will find John Spinks' book Factories. Created in collaboration with the brand, it is a sumptuous little photo book, recording UK clothing manufacture and some of the homespun style of the individuals involved. Like the chap here. These are the places and the people behind Albam's clothes. It's a great little book and we like the idea of supporting British manufacturing, hence the big-up.
All of the above pics are in the tome, except for the bottom one, which was taken at the launch. See anyone familiar? In the foreground, on the right - clearly working while all else are drinking....

H&M unveils new Lanvin collaboration

2010-11-15T04:21:00.000-08:00

After Stella McCartney, Comme Des Garcons, Viktor & Rolf and Karl Lagerfeld, Swedish fast-fashion supremo H&M is limbering up for the latest in the most venerable line-up of designer collabs on the high street. This time it's the turn of catwalk darling Alber Elbaz, artistic director at Lanvin and a man who is widely acclaimed for creating ultra-feminine and oft flamboyant womenswear creations while keeping a steely eye on commercial relevance. Not only did Elbaz's appointment to Lanvin in 2001 reignite the fashion world's love with one of Paris's eldest brands but also served to re-pitch Lanvin as a barometer by which international catwalk trends are measured.

Few will be surprised that Elbaz has focused his efforts for H&M on his signature cocktail dresses and eveningwear. Cinched waists, crunchy textures, asymetric sections of puffy volume and sexy silhouettes all play into Elbaz's comfort zone, what's more challenging and where Elbaz scores critical design points is the skilled way in which he translates his lofty runway-led design personality for a younger customer group who, largely through a diet of high-street fast-fashion, have more of an appetite for bling than his heavily-pursed regular customers.

The collaborative menswear collection, designed by Lanvin menswear designer Lucas Ossendrijver, although slightly less accurate in its balance between design theatrics and commercial common sense (see the military-inspired men's jumpsuit above for reference) is a strong effort too.

The men's range makes most sense when it talks tailoring and the contemporary evening suits are excellent. Slim yet languid, smart yet eccentrically casual, the blazers and jackets espouse the Lanvin menswear values effortlessly.
The collection hits selected nationwide branches of H&M on 23 November. Fashion Buyer UK will be blogging about the main H&M collection for Spring '11 later this week. For more information visit www.HM.com.

Universal Works put a sock in it

2010-11-15T03:50:00.000-08:00

Christmas is coming and Fashion Buyer is getting fat. But who cares when you can look forward to getting some new socks? Especially the new range from Universal Works. Brand founder David Keytes decided to create the line after visiting one of the family run factories he uses up in Nottingham, where they are now all knitted by a fifth generation UK business.

With key footwear styles in mind, these were designed to tick the comfort, fit, and style boxes all at once, with space dyed and flecked knits in the mix.
The Rib Sock made with cotton and nylon, has internal terry hoops for increased comfort. Diamond is a cotton sock incorporating a classic diamond rib pattern of old timers socks but in a chunkier style more friendly to your big brogues. The Seaboot sock is based on fisherman’s sea-worthy sock but updated with a lower leg perfect for deck shoes and shorts. Most techy is the Walkers Sock High, made for supreme comfort in a mix of cotton, and the clever Wool Ultra® yarns to minimize blisters and has natural anti-microbial characteristics.
And you thought socks were boring.

Mercy Delta unveils debut range

2010-11-10T02:13:00.003-08:00

Knowing what gluttons the womenswear market is for an accessory, Fashion Buyer cannot help but perk up when there's a new kid on the scarf block. And given that luxurious printed scarves are the raison d’etre behind new label Mercy Delta, we figured it qualifies as a shopfloor filler. Created by fashion agent Katie Lightfoot and designer Winnie Lee, the debut range kicks off in spring 11 with scarves, wraps and stoles in a mix of luxe fabrications. Core samples are made in a wool/silk mix, while Capri wraps and stoles are a blend of 10% cashmere and 90% Micro-Modal, while camel hair and get an outing too.
Produced in India and Greece, and designed by the two founders, the launch collection has four themes. The South of France Travel collection comes in Mediterranean colours and prints, the English Travel collection in florals and peaches and cream colours and the African Travel collection features animal prints and batik designs. Finally, the Italian Travel Collection is all about classic plain stoles and shawls including the delicate lace Venice shawl. Perfect summer dress accessory? We think so.
Prices from £54 wholesale with retail tickets from £91 to £248
For more info, call Lightfoot Fashion on 020 7487 5166

Spring 11 from Franklin and Marshall

2010-11-05T10:39:00.000-07:00

Italy’s supremely successful varsity brand is ploughing deeper into its own groove for spring 11. Still expect plenty of soft handle sweats, cargo shirts and letter-loaded cardies but upping the ante are bright tailored shorts,

Madras and gingham checks, crested hoodies and shawl collar knits. All familiar items granted but with intensified colours and a more versatile take on branding, sometimes removing it altogether. A standout piece is the sun-bleached crew neck sweater. It feels about half a generation more sophisticated than the brand’s in-your-face hoodie, proving that the F&M gen are growing up and the brand is prepared to go with them.

Freewaters: clever sandals from a clever company

2010-11-05T10:25:00.000-07:00

A refreshingly ethical project, Freewaters is a new footwear brand just stepping on these shores this season. The California company is all about sandals: durable, PVC free and biodegradable they all boast ergonomically shaped footbeds with arch support. Designed by an ex-DC designer these feature some pleasingly techy touches like the lightest-ever midsole (at least that’s the claim) and the no-seam strap. Tiered into First, Bizness and Plus, these come in good, better and best levels.

And the best part? For every pair sold the company donates enough money to provide a year's worth of clean drinking water to one individual, which kind of explains the name, right?
It doesn’t do this through a charity by the way but through its own direct action, you know digging wells and such. Respect.
It's brand new but you can find out more with the flick of an email to info@freewaters.com

Enter the Bagua

2010-11-05T03:27:00.000-07:00

Interested in a Parisian footwear brand whose whole collection is based on Bruce Lee’s kung fu slippers? Of course you are. Well, meet Bagua (pronounced Bag-wa, we’re told). Surprisingly packed with variety for such a limited range of profiles (just the one, actually), Bagua is all about the man-friendly colours with tones of brown, green, grey, black and blue dominating the range of canvas and PU uppers, with the odd Bengal stripe thrown in.

Next: spring 11 preview

2010-11-03T04:52:00.000-07:00

As the spring 11 press previews get fully into swing Fashion Buyer is bracing itself for a fortnight or so of scrutinising the trends and looks backed by the UK's major high street players and their branded counterparts. And if we have to, we'll force a cocktail or two down along the way - it's all part of the work, don't you know.
We are kicking things off with Next. And it's clear that the high street giant is continuing to successfully ramp up its self appointed task of bringing trends to the masses, something it's been doing with added verve for the last two years after realising that the UK punter had got super savvy in terms of those trends and super promiscuous in terms of where they would find them.

In menswear Next is delivering suiting sharp enough to make Mad Men’s Don Draper head for the drinks cabinet, yet the cuts are distinctly rooted to this side of the Atlantic. Classically tailored along with some quintessentially British styling touches, there is a moddish cut to these cleverly darted pieces with slim lapels and contrast jets on the pockets. All pieces are labeled with ‘Styled in the United Kingdom’ and have a nice little crown emblem to boot. Yep, Next is definitely celebrating our homegrown British style.

The casualwear rimmed the Atlantic in slightly more explorative mode, with Canadian plaids, chambray shirts and flat caps teamed with chinos and boots. A more euro freindly look inspired smart casual separates with trousers, striped tops and blazers intorduing a grown up tonal chic.

In womenswear, spring 11 will see the launch of Urban Jungle, a new womenswear sub-brand. Delivering exactly what it promises Urban Jungle will take you from day to night, perfect for romping your way through any city. Offering dresses, trousers, loose fit tops in abstract inspired jungle prints, and most notable of all – a black and white print jumpsuit.

In terms of trends, Next hasn’t missed a beat. Picking up on the white runway explosion a range of dreamy, floaty and cool white tops, dresses and trousers have been developed. Drawing on the minimalist mood of the season Next’s office wear is clean in form, neatly tailored and neutral in colour palette. A standout is the collarless camel lightweight coat. The perfect transition from winter to spring.

Spring 11 is looking to be a great season for the retailer. Fashion Buyer genuinely can’t wait to see what’s Next.

Do you do Yang du?

2010-11-02T11:59:00.000-07:00

A favourite of celeb stylist Grace Woodward, there’s little surprise that Yang Du finds its oddly knitted silhouettes haloing the popette bodies of Marina (she of "and the Diamonds" fame) and Florence (as in "and the Machine").
With every purl of knit adding to the brand’s “WTF?” appeal, this is all about colours, ethnic inspirations (Egypt, India, Hungary and Ecuador in case you wondered) and oversized silhouettes. Key pieces include voluminous T-shirt dresses, knits with crew neck and kimono sleeves and artily sculpted pieces as well as body con dresses. Perfect for pop wannabes, surrealists and window dressers, this one year old brand has found a home stocked in the likes of Browns Focus and Supersweet and we thought you may like a sneak peak.
The sales line is 07988 573729

Karl Heinz loves... Inis Meain

2010-10-31T11:35:00.000-07:00

With a website in Gaelic as well as in English, there's a wonderful sense of authenticity about Inis Meain. The knitwear specialist (who we think is pronounced something like in-ish-man, though we're happy to be corrected on that score!) has stockists in Europe, Tokyo and the US, including the hugely respected indie Grey Flannel in London as well as premium US department stores like Barneys and Bergdorf.
Rustic in flavour and expert in execution these knits feed neatly into the islander lifestyle that you would expect from a company based in the Irish Aran isles. Generations of skill are poured into the creation of multi-cable and heavy gauge knits alongside a collection of natural-coloured plaid shirts.
Check out the brand's blog http://inismeain.ie/blog/ and scroll down to see Karl Heinz Muller, owner of 14oz and organiser of Bread and Butter holidaying on the isles with his six (!) kids.

Fancy Nancy?

2010-10-28T14:58:00.000-07:00

Have you heard of Nancy Van Ostren? Even if you have you may not know that her biography is shot through with a sense of inevitability.

Hailing from a family of tailors, she claims that she was aged just six when she decided to become a designer. Educated at LCF, she went on to work at Zandra Rhodes, Burberry, Jasper Conran and dVb before striking out on her own.

And that’s where the inevitability ends. For the collection itself is far from predictable including quirky tailoring, dramatic dresses with cutaway sections, panelled and bubble-hem shorts and pussy bow details all in a mix of silk, cotton and linen. Everything in this range is clever, considered and cute and it is only her second collection. Get on board now before it's too late.
The brand cites Clements Ribeiro and Todd Lynn as adjacencies. Wholesale prices go from £80 to £360
Explore more at

Luke to open new Manchester store

2010-10-28T11:13:00.000-07:00

Contemporary British menswear brand Luke is opening its first Manchester store on 4th November. Located in the Arndale Centre the 1,400sq ft shop marks the brand's third UK store.

Few brands command as much Fashion Buyer UK respect as Luke. Since its launch we have watched creative director Luke Roper plot a design course that has found the brand carve out a distinctive detail-rich personality which is perfectly pitched at the UK market. Luke's recent commercial successes are of course led largely by Roper's belligerence in designing a collection which has consistently done its own thing, rather than follow the coat-tails of the international muscle brands, but it would be short-sighted not to tip our hat to managing director Simon Poole and director Deborah Poole whose combined passion and closeness to the UK menswear fraternity has helped ignite and sustain retail sales.

Fashion Buyer UK wishes Luke the best of luck with its most recent foray into own retail.
Wholesale prices range from £10 to £116. For more information about the Luke collection phone 01869 366580.

Wrangler's sky high viral campaign

2010-10-27T09:24:00.000-07:00

Since launching its striptastic Tony Ward web campaign at the start of the year, Wrangler has been dishing out a tonne of bright-spark online activity. The denim brand's most recent foray into the viral marketing world was the 'We Are Animals' campaign which asked visitors to its Stop Thinking website whether they were prepared to Stop Thinking in exchange for a mysterious but life-changing reward.
Four members of the public who decided to pick up the gauntlet were whisked away to Belgium a fortnight ago and thrown out of a plane at 13,000 feet. Find out if they landed in one piece by clicking here.

Eden Park to launch England rugby licence collection

2010-10-24T15:29:00.000-07:00

Fashion Buyer hung out with French lifestyle brand Eden Park last night as it announced a six-year deal to dress the England rugby team, a piece of news it followed up by revealing that a licensed collection will be available at wholesale. The 20-year old brand will kick off the licence deal, which uses the rose emblem of the England rugby team, in plenty of time for the 2011 Rugby World Cup. Starting with just 12 pieces, including shirts and blazers using the brand’s preppy handwriting, the first capsule will be available for March 2011.
UK marketing and sponsorship manager Damien Boursiquet explained that the range will be developed in following seasons using feedback from the market. Meanwhile the players’ outfits will remain exclusive to the squad, England player Ugo Monye and coach Martin Johnson were on hand to explain the virtues of the slim-fit suit, shirt, shoes, topcoat and rakish Ralph Lauren-esque Gavroche headgear.

Eden Park has 33 accounts in the UK. To find out more, call 020 7734 0365

Portuguese retailer on the hunt for UK accounts

2010-10-21T15:34:00.000-07:00

The next big euro high street player to hit the UK is shunning the traditional route of popping up in an off-centre Oxford Street fascia only to disappear 18 months later. Instead it will pursue a nationwide wholesale strategy, which means that you could be its next stockist.Portuguese high street retailer Lanidor is not a well-known name on these shores but the fashion chain is hoping to change all that as it takes its contemporary womenswear to UK wholesale.

The chain, which has 137 stores across 12 different countries, is aiming for 40 stockists in the

and will show at either the February or September edition of the Pure tradeshow in London in order to boost its profile among

indies. Lanidor is lining up similar assaults on

Germany

and

France

in spring 11.

And what about the product? See for yourself. Office ready separates include ruffled knits, oversized cardies, slim trousers and pencil skirts. Simple, fitted and pussy-bow detail dresses line up alongside db jackets, camel coats, fitted trenches and slimlined bikers. The palette centres on warm neutrals with tan, blush, cream and brown with highlights in makeup box pastels. Prices go from £17 to £125

For more information contact Mark Kelly on mkelly@lanidor.com

Looking good, Star in the Hood

2010-10-20T02:09:00.000-07:00

With a couple of No1 singles in the bag, the diminutive popstar (or more accurately, grime MC) Tinchy Stryder is no stranger to success. The label, named Star in the Hood after his first album (the third album is impending, and you can bet he'll be wearing some of his own clobber in the videos) comes with bags of attitude, as you can see from this seriously urban shoot, which could have taken place anywhere but Fashion Buyer is betting happened in East London.

It launched with a few pieces of print and jersey but this, the first “proper” range, includes T-shirts from £10-£18, sweatshirts from £20-24 and hoodies at £22. Zip tops are £24 and bottoms are £16. The Starcity Varsity Jacket modelled here is £34.

Among those already stocking the brand are key indies Brother to Brother, Hudz, Tessuti, and John Anthony. Call Elusive Distribution on 07816 902374. Or email john@elusivedistribution.co.uk

Jil Sander's latest J+ collection lands in Uniqlo

2010-10-18T03:43:00.000-07:00

Fans of the clean-lined proportions evangelised by Jil Sander since the 1990s can dose up on the designer's latest collaborative collection with high street champion Uniqlo without calling-in the loan sharks.

This third collection under the J+ monicker delivers an excellent array of Sander's trademark crisp cotton shirts but the winning category for autumn 2010 is outerwear. For reference, take a look at the down-lined pea coats and double-breasted Chesterfield coats for men alongside the super-chic cropped funnel-neck jackets and slim-shouldered wool military coat for women. The best part perhaps, is the fact that there's nothing priced over £149.99.

Personally, we can't wait to get our chilly mitts on the men's quilted 2sb tailored blazer with notched lapels which is scheduled for a drop later this season.
For more details visit shop.uniqlo.com.

Denham The Jeanmaker opens London flagship

2010-10-15T05:40:00.000-07:00

Last night, Dutch denim brand Denham The Jeanmaker cut the ribbon on its four-storey UK headquarters, comprising retail flagship and sales showrooms, all in the heart of London's Shoreditch.
Fashion Buyer UK talked to creative director Jason Denham and UK managing director Terry Bates about product, business and life in one of the most innovative denim brands on the planet.

EXPLAIN THE CONCEPT BEHIND THE NEW BUILDING.
JD: We've wanted to open a store in London since we launched here but the location had to mirror the energy of the brand and the building needed to be able to tell the story of the brand. I believe Shoreditch has the same energy that we have in Amsterdam's 9-streets neighbourhood, which is where our head office and Dutch flagship store is located, as well as in Tokyo's Daikanyama area, the site of our Japanese flagship which opened in June. With this site we have appreciated the vintage and taken inspiration from it, and like our garments we have made it both modern and contemporary.
TB: We both fell in love with the building as soon as we saw it. Formerly a sewing factory the building has an 110 year-old history and has so much personality. Incredibly, we turned the build project around in just two months using our own team from Amsterdam. Now, we are left with a beautiful retail space on the ground floor, a womenswear showroom on the first floor, administrative offices on the second, and a wonderful light-drenched loft-space for the menswear showroom.

WHAT CAN WE EXPECT FROM THE BRAND NOW THAT IT APPROACHES ITS FIFTH SEASON?
JD: The brand is becoming more defined with every season and still follows the same mantra which has held true since we first conceptualised the brand which is to 'worship tradition, destroy convention'. The biggest trend in the world right now is vintage. The way we approach the trend is to take inspiration from the archives but to destroy convention by reinterpreting vintage for the modern market.

HOW DOES THAT MISSION STATEMENT MANIFEST ITSELF TANGIBLY IN THE COLLECTION?
JD: One of our biggest design stories is called Re-cut. We have people from our team scouring the world for deadstock fabrics for the limited edition Re-cut range. As bizarre as it now sounds, someone in the 1850s decided to make trousers out of tent material. Subsequently, they decided to strengthen the seams by banging nails into them but in doing so those people created functional classics which are as relevant today as they were then. Today, we aim to use the same thinking in our collection. Every collection has a Mackintosh for example, but ours has an elasticated cable under a hidden channel which runs behind the button-holes. In doing so the coat becomes more articulated and the silhouette can be manipulated. The truth is in the detail and our collection is driven by new ideas. Our chinos are made using material from vintage Dutch Army Tents. The chino is based around a 1950s archive piece which we re-cut into a slimmer, more modern shape. We kept the Talon zipper and also include with every trouser the sewing kit which as standard issue to US troops became lovingly known as The Housewife. These trousers were launched exclusively in Present on Shoreditch High Street.

HOW HAS LIFE AT THE BRAND CHANGED OVER THE LAST FIVE SEASONS?
JD: The concept and ideas are exactly the same, the advantage now is that the scale of our growing international team enables us to do things better. Having said that, everything can be improved and we are taking every step at a time. We didn't come to the UK, for example, until we had found Terry. Similarly, we have no intention of launching in the US until we find the right people to work with.

WHAT ARE THE MOST COMMERCIALLY RELEVANT JEANS STYLES IN THE UK AT THE MOMENT?
TB: The strongest look for Denham The Jeanmaker in the UK is a mid-vintage wash but to our surprise virgin denim continues to grow in popularity. You only have to look around the streets here in Shoreditch to see that the appetite for dark virgin denim is still growing. In terms of silhouettes we are seeing a great response from the Skin style which is a friendly slim jean, the Grade which is a another tapered slim jean, and we're expecting a strong reaction from Filter, which is another tapered style which will launch in autumn 2011 and has more looseness in the leg leading into a cigarette-straight bottom.

WHAT CAN WE EXPECT FROM THE DESIGN TEAM FOR AUTUMN 2011?
JD: More of the same in terms of handwriting although the execution is becoming more texture-rich. The climate is changing. Our autumns are milder and we have to react to that. as a result we have spent a great deal of time developing our knitwear collection within which there will be far more depth next season. On denim washes, the mid-antique continues to drive sales commercially although our feeling is that clean-looking virgin denim will continue to grow.

HOW IMPORTANT TO THE BRAND'S UK GROWTH IS THE OPENING OF THIS STORE?
TB: It's absolutely critical. We want to create excitement in the brand and the opening of the store and showrooms is our first brand building reference point. Our customers, be they consumers or buyers, will come here and have their curiosity in Denham The Jeanmaker satisfied by an immersive and sincere retail or showroom experience.

HOW HAS THE UK MARKET REACTED TO DENHAM THE JEANMAKER?

TB: We have always been selective about our growth and have been honest with the market. Today we have 53 accounts. We could develop that to 240 but it's all about getting the brand into the right places and then keeping it there by an uncompromising attitude towards customer service. We don't want to be in every town and we're not arrogant enough to think that we will be the number-one brand but as long as we are creating excitement in what we are doing, and we are helping the retailers to make the right product selections for their stores, and we are educating their sales staff so that they can sell our brand with the same passion that we have, then I know we are ticking the right boxes.

WHERE IS DENHAM THE JEANMAKER'S POSITION PLOTTED IN THE INTERNATIONAL DENIM MARKET?

JD: The position of the power-player brands in the market is changing which is creating opportunities for new brands. The giants will always exist but there's a new opportunity for new brands to come in, make a statement, light up the market and get people excited. I believe the market is cyclical and moves in five year cycles. The last five years have been dominated by a Scandinavian look dominated by brands such as Nudie, Monkey Genes and Acne. The five years before that were led by the West Coast women's denim brands. And, before that the market was led by the Japanese led by brands such as Evisu. I believe that the next cycle will be led by Holland and more importantly Amsterdam. Why else would Levi's have moved its design team there? The market is in transition and it's up to us to take advantage of that transition.

Catwalk trend round up: womenswear spring 11

2010-10-15T05:33:00.000-07:00

The flurry of fashion weeks the world over rages on no longer. The countless shows have drawn to a close and never to rest on our weary laurels we have endeavored to pick out the strongest, essential, must have stocked in your store Spring 2011 trends:

The Trouser: In keeping with the upcoming minimal mood of spring, trousers are still the new trouser (following nicely from this winter) and are set to be simple, long, and very lean. This smashing silhouette was seen on multiple runways from Phillip Lim to Chloe (pictured).

Neon Heels: You’ll need protective eyewear to view SS11’s most key footwear. Fashion lovers everywhere will be teetering on Neon bright sky-high heels. Miu Miu (pictured) and Christopher Kane have both produced some electric pairs…It would be oh so rude not follow in their footsteps.

Full Length Skirts: We thought the mini skirt would never die…apparently it has. And the midi is toasting at the wake. Skirt lengths fall mid calf or below this spring. Apologies to the teenager within. Pictured above: Jil Sander

Biker Jacket: Burberry Prorsum cannot put a jacket wrong! The leather biker jacket (following the explosion of this season’s shearling jacket) is an absolute must for your store window. Watch the queues form.

White: There is no denying it. White floated its way down the runway in every form imaginable, from tailored trousers to romantic lace dresses. Not stocking white this spring would be like ignoring mentioning the rather large Ivory elephant in the room…Pictured above: Alexander Wang

Ralph Lauren launches transactional website in UK

2010-10-14T05:50:00.000-07:00

Ralph Lauren today introduced its first e-commerce platform in the UK. The launch marks the first time that shoppers outside the US have been able to purchase Ralph Lauren products online.

The edited online merchandise assortment includes products from women's sub-brands Ralph Lauren Collection, Black Label, Blue Label, RLX Ralph Lauren and Pink Pony. Menswear includes Purple Label, Black Label, Polo and RLX Ralph Lauren. Childrenswear is available from layette to boys' and girls' sizes, while the Home collection provides a selection of merchandise from the brand's luxury homeware range.

The website follows the editorial style so popular among leading fashion e-tailers from Asos to MyWardrobe.com. Key components include a Style Guide spotlighting new trends and offering tips on how to create signature Ralph looks as well as the quarterly luxury lifestyle e-zine, RL Magazine.

While the brand has admitted its intention to introduce Lauren by Ralph Lauren, Ralph Lauren Big & Tall, and the brand's customisation range Create Your Own over the coming months, there are yet no plans to roll out either the Rugby range or the premium casualwear collection RRL which was launched at wholesale this autumn 2010.

The varsity-inspired Rugby range will be given its first UK bricks-and-mortar store next autumn in 2011. The 5,703sq ft store at 43 King Street has been taken on a 15 year lease and follows recent Covent Garden lettings to Burberry, which will also open on King Street in 2011 as well as the August openings of the world's largest Apple store and Kurt Geiger's European flagship, both on James Street.

Launched in 2004 Rugby has an archive-inspired collegiate handwriting, as seen in the pictures taken from the autumn 2011 lookbook.

To experience the Ralph Lauren e-commerce site first-hand, log on at www.ralphlauren.com.

Shirts that you could Staple to your back

2010-10-12T13:38:00.000-07:00

Staple Design is a creative furnace, churning out co-labs with huge brands from Oakley to Puma, and working with pretty much everyone from Nike, Sony and LVMH to Microsoft and Lotus. But don’t let that corporate halo put you off. Jeff Ng, the man behind Staple, is superbly respected in the trade and it is the brand’s own menswear collection that has Fashion Buyer drooling today.

The New York label’s spring 11 range is a distillation of on-trend shirt details, with some of our favourites in the mix: contrast colour half plackets, plaid panels and sleeves and washed out oxfords in blue and pink.

With references to heritage details, workwear fabrics and college fund Ivy leaguers, this is a range that rings the bells right now from a label that is light on UK stockists. That may partly be because you’ll need to call the US but perhaps that transatlantic chat is worth it now.

For more information call 001212 979 8020

Ralph Lauren: RRL's vision of mercantile-era retail

2010-10-11T10:47:00.000-07:00

While we Brits may have only just got out heritage-hungry mitts on Ralph Lauren's frontier-chic RRL collection this season (check out indie menswear traders Oi Polloi, The Bureau, and End Clothing for reference), those lucky Americans have had it since 1993.

It's still too early to even begin hoping for a London RRL flagship but Fashion Buyer UK couldn't help but give a sneaky peak of what the store could look like. The pics here were posted by the excellent US blog A Continuous Lean, whose editor Michael Williams was invited last month to preview the newly revamped Manhattan Rhinelander Mansion store at 72nd Street & Madison.

Dedicated to RRL, the third floor is an antiqued shrine to RRL's dustbowl-era Americana. Vintage haberdasher's cabinets, Victorian display cases and aged Persian rugs combine to create a rich mercantile-era backdrop for a collection that looks like it has stepped off the set of The Waltons.

Ralph Lauren's exquisite visual merchandising is matched by the RRL brand's merchandise which swings from oil-cloth hunting coats and tweed tailoring to US-made engineer boots and a cornucopia of laundered plaid flannel shirts.

Understated yet texture-rich and visually seductive there can be few stores as accurately tuned-in to their product personality and customers' expectations as the Ralph Lauren Rhinelander Mansion store. We only wish we could sample it first hand.

Knitwear with model pedigree

2010-10-08T11:59:00.000-07:00

Fashion Buyer has spent enough hours bumper to bumper on both the North and South Circular London ring roads for the very mention of them to send a chill up the spine. How apposite then that cold shiver can be quelled by the expert knitwork created by the team of grannies behind new brand The North Circular.

The brand was dreamt up by model Lily Cole, who together with a couple of pals created the ethically sourced, meet-your-sheep, knitted-by-grannies (really – you can “meet” them at the brand’s website) concept.

Most important though, is the product. And the product is bloomin’ lovely. A heavy circular snood is the signature piece and is joined by a cable knit hood, oversized bobbles and a rib dress among the brand’s current line-up of mostly accessories and a smattering of R2W. Currently the brand boasts 19 styles, mostly for women but with a “pour homme” nod in the jet/navy colourway. Other colours include natural, jet, ruby and grey.

Though distribution is pretty much covered in the capital with the uber trendy Dover Street Market, Start and Harvey Nicks all committed to the brand, the North Circular team is eager to expand UK distribution. Internationally, the store roster is just as sexy with Paris’s Colette and Japan’s Isetan and United Arrows on the register.

For sales, call knitwear expert and Central St Martins grad Alice on 07849 199563

Sarah Burton unveils her vision for Alexander MccQueen in Paris

2010-10-07T03:24:00.000-07:00

All eyes were on the Alexander McQueen presentation in Paris this week. This being the label's first catwalk appearance since the London designer's untimely death in February few catwalk designers could have felt the pressure as acutely this week as Sarah Burton. McQueen's former head of womenswear design, Burton took charge of McQueen's formidable design reigns in May.
Burton did not disappoint. By incorporating distinctive silhouettes and recognisable treatments her collection was immediately respectful of McQueen's design aesthetic, though her effort was by no means shackled to Mr McQueen's legacy. The dark theatre which cloaked McQueen's former presentations was played out with far lighter brush-strokes.

The beautifully constructed tailoring, kaleidoscopic semi-digitised patterns, and organic reference points redolent of Burton's former master were still present though there were softer more fluid interpretations too characterised by a deployment of chiffon bustles, 1970s inspired maxi shapes and more slender, feminine cuts than in the past.

Nature, and its victory over modern technology, provided the thematic backdrop for the collection. Made sense of by leather leaf-shape cut-outs pulled together by bronze cowboy-belt buckles, an autumnal woodland palette, one dress created from what looked like intricately woven sheaths of wheat and another a carnival of ostrich plumes, this vision of the natural world seen through the eyes of the McQueen brand was nothing short of awe-inspiring and marked a triumphant return.

Womenswear key styles: lace

2010-10-06T10:33:00.000-07:00

The lace trend ticks so many boxes. Hard yet soft; girly yet grown up; wintry yet summery. And best of all it’s not going away yet, and the Milanese catwalks pointed to a spring 11 prettily clothed in white lace. But with Fashion Buyer’s unrelenting impatience holding sway we can’t quite wait that long.

So for autumn 10, here are some pieces you can get into your stores right now from some of our fast fashion favourites. There’s still a gothic edge to these heirloom-a-likes, on layered and sleeve detail dresses with some skirts getting in on the act too, while sheer tops are as sexy as you style them.

Though it’s a predominately black trend for the winter season, there are some neutrals and even some sumptuous jewellery styles coming through.

All you have to do is pick up the phone.

Yumi: 020 8963 7092
Traffic People: 01245 280878
Forever Unique: 0161 836 5200

Pictured from the top: Yumi, Traffic People, Forever Unique, Yumi, Yumi, Traffic People

Storm lifts the lid on its new collection

2010-10-06T02:57:00.000-07:00

Fashion watch specialist Storm today unveiled its latest collection. Trend-led treatments included rubber straps, bright colours and retro-inspired watch faces.
Leading the charge of new styles is the Pop X which features a modular watch face which can be popped out of a single-piece rubber strap and swapped between straps in different colours. The Rebel is another style which harks back to the 1980s and a watch-buying era defined by the throwaway pop-sensibilities of Swatch. Rebel features a solid green watch face set against a black matt rubber strap with two curved peepholes, each displaying the time via concealed rotating discs.

Since Chanel and Toy Watch introduced enamel finishes to the classic diving watch almost every jewellery brand has introduced their own interpretation. Storm is no different and has had its own enamel diving watches for the last two years. This season it moves the treatment on with the introduction of the Lexi and the Lexi Diamond, the newest additions to Storm's premium Storm Black range. Distinctive enamel and metal links, onyx crowns and a slim line silhouette define the Lexi with the £429.99 top-end Lexi Diamond in gold also featuring a bezel of 30 Swarovski crystals.

Storm currently has around 400 UK stockists including department stores Debenhams and Fenwick. Retail prices range from £59.99 to £499. For more information call 020 7874 6900, or visit http://www.stormwatches.com/.
Pictured from top: Pop X, Cam X, DuoTec

Yuketen releases new autumn winter 2010 lookbook

2010-10-05T09:03:00.000-07:00

Handmade US footwear afficionado Yuketen has released a new lookbook crammed with tasty new shots of this season's merchandise. As well as the ever-fetching Yuketen Hunt Boots look out for the super-tasty retro reefer coats fashioned from Hudson Bay blankets.
In the US, Hudson Bay Blankets are revered much like we Brits treasure a vintage Burberry trench, with some blankets passed down from one generation to the next. Manufactured in Scotland solely for export to the States, the Hudson Bay Company originally developed the distinctive arctic white blankets specifically to trade with native American tribes who favoured the blankets not only for there hardwearing and insulating properties but also their ability to blend into the oft snowy backdrop of the Great Outdoors. See the picture below not only for the distinctive labelling but also Hudson Bay Blanket's iconic green, red, yellow and black banding, which along with the four black tipping marks, which appear along the outside edge, combined to give the product its monicker as the Four Point blanket.

Up until the 1950s the blankets were also used for sports coats and importantly were used for the now iconic reefer jacket silhouette. Back at the January edition of Pitti Uomo both Japanese brand Haversack and Monitaly, the vintage-inspired apparel brand founded by Yuketen owner Yuki Matsuda, showed modern interpretations of Hudson Bay blanket coats for autumn 2010. The only UK retailer known to be stocking the Monitaly version is Sarah Coggles which has the coat available to view and purchase online at www.coggles.com priced at £575.
Anyway, history lesson over, enjoy the shots below taken from Yuketen's autumn 2010 lookbook.

It's almost enough to send the Fashion Buyer team traipsing off to the Yukon for a slice of the Grizzly Adams life. Well, almost.

Rocky Mountain Featherbed, vintage Americana, and thoughts on the New Luxury

2010-10-04T13:05:00.000-07:00

Some trend pundits have linked the recent resurgence in popularity of workwear and Americana-inspired menswear to our recessionary times. The ensuing appetite for dependable, hard-wearing product with an emphasis on trend-busting authenticity can certainly be linked to a rejection of logo-led clothing, fussy and functionless design and fly-by-night fast fashion. Some commentators go a step further suggesting that at its heart this return to rootsy, blue-collar clothing symbolises an age dictated by austerity, frugality and a rejection of luxury. The Fashion Buyer team could not disagree more.

Menswear's current fascination with traditional clothing is underpinned by luxury, albeit an updated definition of the word. Rather than being symbolised by brash branding, far-fetched designs or deep-pocketed marketing spend, this new luxury is hardwired to a sense of quality.
Not a world apart from the plummy aristo who favors the roll of a Huntsman lapel over Prada's, or the well-heeled Victorian travellers who over a Century ago invested in Louis Vuitton luggage less for its monogram and more for its hand-crafted strength and understated elegance, today's discerning menswear connoisseurs are shifting their collective focus towards a batallion of brands whose arsenal is underpinned by authenticity and pedigree, and whose battle-cry is fuelled by an uncompromising sense of quality.

The Fashion Buyer blog has trumpeted this campaign towards artisan-led luxury product since its inception over a year ago and has reported emphatically on the brands which have helped to furnish the movement from Nigel Cabourn and Quoddy to SNS Herning and Yuketen, but it still brings a smile to our faces when we catch wind of another.
The latest heritage brand to register on our radar is Rocky Mountain Featherbed. Cast your minds back to the late 1960s, a time when New York was witnessing the birth of Pop Art and scores of straw-chewing beatniks were abandoning their hometowns to follow the pied piper of love to San Francisco. Tucked away in an unassuming corner of Jackson, Wyoming, another slice of history was being carved out - the inception of Rocky Mountain Featherbed.

The currency in Jackson was neither soup-can screen prints or limp-skinned jazz cigarettes. The major product coming out of Jackson's Rocky Mountain Featherbeds was the leather-yoked cold weather vest. An instant hit with frost-bitten cowboys, the down-filled invention soon led to the introduction of a jacket version in 1974 and before you could say Crosby, Stills, Nash and Young, Rocky Mountain Featherbed became a byword for premium quality in the sportswear world.
A decade passed and as the beatniks swapped their free-thinking hug-a-tree ideals for a yuppy's diet of Armani suits, breeze-block cell-phones and dollar-bills, America fell out of love with Rocky Mountain Featherbed.

Like so many historic American brands to lose their voices against the clatter of mass manufacturing it took an Americana-obsessed Japanese vintage collector to dust down and revive Rocky Mountain Featherbed. Unfortunately, for the modestly-funded modern clothing enthusiast, upholding the brand's premium roots and fastidious attention to detail comes at a price and today's entry price Rocky Mountain Featherbed gilet will give you little change from £400 with long-sleeved outerwear starting at £775. Just goes to show that while the notion of what constitutes as luxury may be evolving, the price tags attached to it remain frustratingly for most just out of reach.

USC launches Angeleye womenswear brand

2010-10-04T04:52:00.000-07:00

USC today launched Angeleye, the latest salvo in the young fashion multiple's campaign to drive own-brand sales. Fronted by former Big Brother contestant Samantha Marchant, otherwise know as one identical half of the twin sisters dubbed Samanda, Marchant is the face of Angeleye.

Key styles include a Halston-era black jumpsuit with sequin embellished waistband and shoulders priced at £35, a £30 knee-length shift dress embellished all-over with metallic tear-drop sequins, and a ruched-front long sleeved cardigan with a concealed zip under a ruffled over-flap at £30.
Regular in-season injections are planned for Angeleye which can be seen either in-store or by searching for Angeleye at www.usc.co.uk.

Womenswear spring 11 colour report: the future's bright

2010-10-01T10:29:00.000-07:00

According to London Fashion Week the future is bright (and not just orange for that matter). Christopher Kane was the first to send an electric array of neon’s clashing down the runway. Described as ‘Princess Margaret on acid’, it was a fusion of acid brights and prim silhouettes that summed up the age spanning mood of the show. Leather was doctored to look fake in lurid shades of pink and orange. Most notable of all: a lime green and yellow leather suit designed to resemble lace.

Roksanda Illincic had a lighter and fresher take on brights with deliciously floaty silk and taffeta kaftans whilst Burberry Prorsum punctuated its (set to be huge) biker jackets with highlighter accessories. In Milan, Prada lifted and indeed twisted everyone’s spirits with a heady cocktail of solid primary colour, jungle prints and stripes, a colourful explosion with inspiration from everything from seventeenth-century cherubs, hospital scrubs (?!) and the flamboyant Josephine Baker. In New York, DVF’s clashing prints echoed this. The message is loud. It’s clear. And moreover, it’s bright.
Pictured: Prada, Christopher Kane, Roksanda Illincic

Womenswear spring 11 colour report: Bridal whites

2010-10-01T09:14:00.000-07:00

White, white and white came through on a flurry of lace, sheers and simple tailoring - three trends that refuse to budge. That’s right, the catwalks are nothing if not contrary and after the brights come the whites. Dolce and Gabbana wanted to evoke a sense of hope – and what is more hopeful than an excited bride to be? That feeling of new beginnings was conjured with sheer white lace dresses, wedding night baby-dolls and broderie anglaise jackets. Luxury Italian brand Brioni echoed the look: sheer white lace dresses revealing nothing but white shorts underneath, white lace tops complemented with white tailoring and it all floated alongside white wide leg trousers and kaftan dresses. An oh so romantic yet simple mood. Come the summer it will all look fresh in your windows and a tie in with your local dry cleaners may be on the cards.
Pictured: Dolce and Gabbana, Brioni

Womenswear spring 11 colour report: go neutral

2010-10-01T09:11:00.000-07:00

Sit on the fence this spring and keep your colour palette neutral. Following on from this season’s camel explosion, the luxe rich tones are sticking around. Anne Valarie Hash proved beige is anything but, with a show almost entirely composed of the hue. Phillip Lim also played with a minimal (fast becoming a word for the season) neutral colour palette. Maxmara didn’t stray from caramel and beige. Leaving the front row craving an espresso I’m sure.
Pictured: Anne Valerie Hash, Maxmara, Phillip Lim

Paul Costelloe introduces subscription service for shirt fiends

2010-09-30T09:24:00.000-07:00

Shirt addicts can now get a monthly sartorial fix from British design stalwart and thoroughly decent chap, Paul Costelloe. Shirtscription is a new service which enables online subscribers to have a crisp new two-fold delivered straight to the door every month.
Available in either three or six-month subscriptions, the Shirscription service allows customers to choose from heaps of options with the three-month offer providing the third shirt free, while the six month service provides six for the price of four.
Get the timing right and you could even banish those Sunday night ironing blues.
Go to www.paulcostelloeman.co.uk for more details.

Been at Fashion Week? Been to Bread & Butter?

2010-09-30T07:47:00.000-07:00

Live in London? Been to Bread & Butter? Hung out in Shoreditch? Then the video above will make perfect sense. Please excuse the shortened screen, it's one of the limitations of the Blogger software. BTW did anyone notice how many potential extras for the above video surfaced during London Fashion Week.

Head to Upper 5th for statement knits

2010-09-29T08:15:00.000-07:00

The ever-evolving womenswear wish list has a place in its heart for chunky knitwear this autumn winter and if your shopfloor is regularly scoured by anyone in the 16 to 35 year old age group then a heavyweight, long line cable knit should find a home next to those minidresses and high waisted trousers.
An easy-to-source version and one that is utterly affordable comes from Upper 5th. If you hit the basement at Topshop Oxford Circus on a regular basis then you'll know the brand already. If not, then rest assured that its roster of varsity cardies, polka dotted mini-dresses and signature printed skirts have found space in the pap-pages of the bubblegum press, worn by latter day clotheshorses from Mischa Barton, Fearne Cotton and The Saturdays' Mollie to Sophie Ellis Bextor
These wear-with-your-leggings-ready cable knits come in cream, navy and tobacco and wholesale for £30.
Call 020 7586 4512.

G-Star's new premium handwriting

2010-09-29T04:47:00.000-07:00

Back in January when Fashion Buyer braved the wintery climes of icy Berlin for the AW10 edition of Bread & Butter, among the most striking advancements was G-Star's new premium handwriting.

Shedding, to some degree, the shackles of its raw denim aesthetic, the utilitarian look which found the brand its initial flurry of fame was trumped by a considered selection of meticulously antiqued denims and wonderfully sumptuous knits. Among our favourites was the Highbury cardigan (pictured), a heavy gauge fisherman's knit with the season's must have shawl collar. This cardie not only weighs an absolute tonne but in this distinctive sowester yellow it provides a bright foil to the brand's softly aged denims for autumn 10. By the way, those very same authentically aged jeans look even stronger for SS10 when G-Star launches the best flood-length carrot leg jean we've seen for spring replete with a darted leg construction and a nifty leather-lined waistband.

Could premium denim buyers be tempted to fall back in love with G-Star?

Milan Fashion Week: Armani's blue Monday

2010-09-28T08:50:00.000-07:00

Inspired, according to the program notes, by the indigo robes favoured by the nomadic Tuareg tribespeople of the Sahara, Giorgio Armani yesterday presented a collection dictated by saturated shades of inky monochromatic blues and intricately cut silhouettes.
A stream of turbaned models mimicking the 'blue men of the desert' wore structured tunics over pleated silk trousers alongside tailored leather biker jackets, draped dresses with their hems rolled up and swagged below the bust, clean-lined tailored jackets and red carpet-friendly evening gowns swathed in layer up on layer of transparent fabric.

Milan Fashion Week: Gucci goes for old school glam

2010-09-22T16:39:00.000-07:00

It’s fair to say that London Fashion Week has been, on the whole, way more commercial than usual. It was less about who could be the edgiest and more about who could sell the most. So it was an apposite rejoinder from

Italy

that saw Frida Giannini open Milan Fashion Week with a Gucci show that looked not just more commercial, but for all the world like a commercial, providing all the fantasy of an ad man’s 30 second prime time slot. You can nearly hear the breathy 70s pop remix looking at the pictures. And what of those pics? Well, the show was split into easily demarcated sections. Jewel bright contrasts, sophisticated white, glam gold and vampish black. Glossily tailored, all that liquid silk drape was about feeling good and looking like a high octane, moneyed lady of leisure. One thing to note – the fringing and feathering that swooshed around LFW made another appearance here – it’s a clever design detail and here to stay for any brand keen to prove they can do it. Which Gucci can.

London Fashion Week: Giles makes it Lotsa Fun Week

2010-09-22T16:28:00.000-07:00

While the 70s thing rocked NY, a 1940s mood underpinned a handful of the London shows, with Giles following Erdem into a world of wartime glamour, with pretty polka dots and curvy silhouettes dominating. Waspish waists and heaving bosoms recalled cigarette girls but these vintage tinged femmes were just one among a mish-mash of references at the designer’s London show.

Just as prevalent were ravers in eye-popping intarsia statement knitwear, with tanks, cardies and knitted dresses on show. Glamourpusses of the Italian Riviera swished in on the act next, but the real stars were the details. Clever fringing, sheers, corsets and heavy knits provided plenty of contrast as Giles proved consistency is about attitude, not slavishly repeating the same item. And his attitude puts F, U and N into fashun (sic) as his stellar line up of models, including Agyness Deyn and Kelly Brook, proved. Just enjoy it.

London Fashion Week: Erdem welcomes you to the garden

2010-09-22T16:21:00.000-07:00

If you could take the concept of prettiness and multiply it by itself you’d get prettiness squared. And that, somehow, is what Erdem does. And at this London Fashion Week it was a breezy summer garden show underpinned by 1940s silhouettes, confident florals and impressionist-derived painterly digital prints. Kicking off with bright white on white, applique on chiffon dresses, the mood stayed innocent pretty and upbeat throughout, introducing bright red placement florals, layered effects with embroidered florals over digi printed Monet-like backgrounds and intensely colourful brights. Placement primaries and embroidered fleurs were juxtaposed with blurry digi. Even the floor length black netting dress stayed this side of sombre.
Silhouettes? Collared blouses, tea dresses, slightly A-line skirts, flared and gently pleated. There were hot pants and loose trousers as well as maxis. Designer Erdem Moralioglu, the Canadian born son of Anglo Turkish parents was his year’s recipient of the BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund, which entailed a £200,000 award and mentoring from top industry figures. The pretty pretty look justifies the funding. This was a commercial story, with plenty to inspire short order brands.

Pitti Uomo unveils Trussardi as star of 79th edition

2010-09-22T04:16:00.000-07:00

Menswear show Pitti Uomo has announced that The Trussardi Group will headline the special events at the 79th edition of the show on January 11 to 14 in Florence, Italy

The year will be the 100th anniversary of The Trussardi Group. The company whose crest bears the tagline “Dal 1911”, highlighting the year of the brand’s birth, is a luxury label creating both menswear and womenswear.
In a release sent out this morning, Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine, said Trussardi is a, “young, motivated team with broad vision and an ability to create contemporary products and projects combining marketing, communications and culture. We feel very close to them and are happy that we found the right occasion to work together. The City of Florence has also responded enthusiastically and will help us find the spaces to present the entire Trussardi program”.
Pitti Uomo has a history of drawing headline names to its Florence show, from Brit designers Giles Deacon and Carri Mundane to Kriss van Assche and Raf Simons.